Wago terminal blocks in home wiring

A very suspicious thing is these terminal blocks ...

If it is not difficult for the author, then let him post pictures of the internal structure of the terminal blocks with a spring-loaded contact.

The point is that the spring reliably presses only a small part of the wire, the contact spot is on the order of several square mm, which can be several times smaller than the cross section of the wire itself.

While ordinary PPEs allow you to get the contact area several times larger than the cross-section of the conductors.

When the managers came to us and sucked in these terminal blocks, they could not answer anything intelligible to my question, referring to some innovations and the penetration of the conductor material into the material of the contact surface)).

I personally used these terminal blocks, so these are the results: when connecting copper wires there were no problems for 3 years, but they are not "friends" with aluminum, if they still work on chandeliers on a Watt 200, then with loads in the region of 10A- 12A, that with paste, that without paste for more than 5 months they could not stand it.

http://www.tesli.com/file/image/products/wago-connectors.jpg

I found the picture myself.

If you look at the very first picture, you can see that the best contact will be where the spring presses the conductor to the contact plate, the remaining "tail" of the wire that comes after the contact point is not a fact that it will fit snugly onto the contact surface. Accordingly, from a wire with a cross section of 4-6 mm2, we get a “contact spot” on the terminal strip of a much smaller area.

The most normal spring-loaded contact is in Fig. 6 (bottom right), where the entire surface of the conductor is pressed against the contact pad, but this design in WAGO is used only on powerful terminal blocks.

Judging by the drawings, they do not work with aluminum due to the fact that copper is part of the material for the manufacture of the contact part.

?! If you continue your analogy))) then the wagon terminal blocks go immediately complete with a piece of wire dangling at the input))

When I worked with the regional energy company, it was a joke, they finally thought of removing all the grovers from under the nuts, because over time they overheated and lost their springy qualities, and this is logical and correct! And here they are trying to impose a springy contact .... If you have questions, suggestions, or any suggestions, write, we will communicate !!!! I WILL BE glad of the dialogue!

My question is, maybe not quite smart but simple, but how do the springy qualities of the material of the contact spring change when I work and the temperature rises, i.e. the pressure will weaken, but by how much? The steel is tangible, but in this case?

P.s. I did not study materials science, only ЕТМ, but I will be glad to study if necessary for this issue))))

You can use these garbage clips at best for a chandelier. And according to the PUE, twisting with soldering or welding of contacts is allowed to be the most reliable method for today, and all these clamps are for fans to experiment with.

There is nothing more reliable than welding! A spring has the ability to tire without heating! Metal fatigue - no one canceled!

Give them welding - retrograde. WAGO, a connection tested over the years, has already installed 1000 of them.

I will decide that email. conductive paste is petroleum jelly from quartz sand (quartz-vaseline paste) and he does not conduct email at all. current because it is a dialectic. Vaseline does not give oxygen access, as a result of which a chemical does not occur. metal oxidation reactions. And particles of quartz sand, when tightly compressed, pierce the oxide film located on the surface of the conductor (Used when crimping tips and sleeves). Is aluminum only oxidized? Do other metals not react with oxygen? And why then do we need a flux for soldering and welding metals?

if I see, I’ll just buy it for fun ... what current can it withstand) and compare with the usual twisting with gray

I have been using WAGO clamps for 8 or 10 years, great stuff! Very convenient, easy to add wires or remove excess. Copper and aluminum can be inserted into clems with paste at the same time (302, 304, 306, 308 ...), without paste only for copper. But the paste is sold separately (we cost about 600 rubles for 250ml), but it lasts for a long time. I hear a lot of complaints about these terminals, BUT !!! ... Often the terminal is not to blame, but the electricians themselves, I came to this conclusion gradually from experience. Often banal carelessness (poorly cleaned or not fully inserted), more often network congestion. It should initially understand the principle of operation of the clem (above already knotik correctly noticed) the terminal does not give full contact, respectively, you should think about the load and try not to use them when more than 3 outlets are sitting on the same line, especially if they are connected by a loop. I mainly use only with pasta, I have collected more than 3 dozen objects on them (shops \ cottages \ apartments). There were problems when I started to use (a year and a half, until I understood the nuances), now practically no problems arise. Use wisely, I recommend it to everyone !!!

Sergey, maybe you meant paste for aluminum conductors? Something I did not hear that if you use paste, then you can simultaneously insert copper and aluminum conductors. It is not recommended to connect conductors of different metals, since this contact connection will not last long, especially with a relatively large load.

And if you agree that the terminal “does not give full contact”, then most likely it would be better to use terminal blocks of a different type? Perhaps, at the moment, the terminal block provides normal contact, and if in the near future there is a need to include additional load, then the terminal block may be damaged. Therefore, when installing wiring, it is better to immediately take into account a possible increase in the load on a particular wiring line.

You write: "do not use them when more than three outlets are sitting on the same line." If three ordinary sockets are loaded with a rated current of 16 A, then the total current that will pass through the terminal strip in the junction box will be 48 A. It is unlikely that the Wago terminals can withstand such a current.

And as for connecting the sockets with a loop. On the contrary, when connecting several outlets with a loop, a smaller number of conductors must be connected in the junction box. For example, you need to connect four sockets in a junction box. If three of them are connected by a loop, and one separately connected, then in the junction box it is necessary to branch two lines. If you connect each outlet from the junction box, you need to branch four wiring lines.

I’m wondering what kind of moron will scald or solder the wiring of a house with a maximum cross section of 4, and what to do with old aluminum when you need to connect it to copper?

Someone here was yapping about twisting with a seal, the method is certainly wonderful, but you can still scald with a termite checker)))) Has anyone heard of the principle of reasonable sufficiency? I do not insist on the wagon, but the spring terminal blocks are generally quite reliable thing, you can safely hang on consumer goods up to 25 amperes, the main thing is to find the normal manufacturer.

Another question came up about metal fatigue - in Soviet cast-iron grovers this can and does happen, but this cannot be said about normal electrical clamps, they retain properties up to 600 degrees - not a single connection is heated like this in normal mode.And, gentlemen, the installers - I beg you to use the PUE with an eye to the fact that more than half of the rules there are out of date for 50 years.

Mike, soldering and welding are one of the most reliable ways to connect wires, so it is important to use them in home wiring. Why do you argue the rejection of these methods of connecting conductors so that the cross-section of the wiring is not more than 4 square meters. mm? Regardless of the cross-section of the conductors, it is necessary to ensure their reliable contact connection, since without this the wiring will be unreliable.

If we are talking about low-current circuits, for example, lighting networks, then here you can use spring terminal blocks. And if these are power lines (power sockets) along which a large load will flow, then here you should choose a more reliable way to connect the conductors.

Many prefer terminal blocks, since with their help it is simple and quick to connect wires. But such connections are not reliable enough. Over time, the spring of the spring terminal block weakens, contact surfaces are oxidized.

Soldering or welding is a more time-consuming method, but it provides high reliability of contact joints that do not lose their properties over time.

Therefore, soldering and welding (if possible, of course) are chosen by people who want to make a reliable wiring for themselves, in which they will not have to constantly look and be afraid that it will not withstand the load of electrical appliances.

But to hang terminal blocks everywhere, guided by the principle of "reasonable sufficiency", is unreasonable.

If, nevertheless, there was a need to connect copper and aluminum wires, I would prefer bolted terminal blocks, which are more reliable than spring terminals, or use a conventional bolted connection, separating the connected conductors with a washer.

Well, in general, if we talk about reliability, it is better to draw a separate line from the circuit breaker in the panel to the outlet without using intermediate contact connections - this is really reliable and there will be no problems with the choice of the method of contact connection of conductors.

And if the aluminum wire is quite old, then you should think about the need to replace the wiring, so aluminum wiring has its own life.

And I would add that methods for reliable connection of conductors cannot be outdated, even if they are 50 years old. Not always innovations such as terminals Wagowill be more reliable than old and time-tested methods - soldering, welding, crimping.

Hello. Is it possible to connect the aluminum wire, section 3.1 (diameter 2 mm) through the Vagovsky terminal blocks with a maximum section up to 2.5? Branches will go to a power outlet, on which a TV, receiver or DVD will be powered, and to another room, where as much as possible: 2 lamps and a laptop work, 2 mobile phones are charged. Thanks.

The main thing is whether the contacts on this outlet will be heated?

Is the second option possible? Without terminal blocks: wires are connected at the socket contacts.

Dmitry1, the contacts will not heat up, since the total load of the listed electrical appliances will be small. The wire is most likely a cross section of 2.5 or 4 sq. Mm, since the standard value is 3 sq. mm no. In any case, if a terminal block is available, then you can try to connect a conductor to it to make sure it fits or not.

If the load is small, then you can alternatively connect branch wires directly to the contacts of the outlet. It all depends on the design features of the outlet. Perhaps its contact clamps will not allow the conductors to branch. There are also types of outlets with an extra pair of contacts that are specifically designed to branch a wiring line to power another outlet.

Hello.Tell me, can aluminum and copper wires be connected through the Vagov or screw terminal blocks and placed in the baseboard? I do not want the distribution boxes in sight.

If skirting is not possible, what is the minimum twist length for aluminum and copper wires?

Dmitry1, aluminum and copper wires can be connected in such a way that they do not touch each other. That is, twisting is definitely impossible, since these two metals will be in contact, which is not permissible. Through the terminal blocks it is possible, since in this case the wires do not touch each other. Only here in the baseboard there is probably not enough space to put the terminal strip there. The only option is to place these terminal blocks in the junction box or, if space permits, branch the conductors in the socket of the outlet from which you plan to connect the wire. Or, tap the wires from the outlet itself, if its contacts allow you to connect another pair of conductors. In all cases, it is necessary, first of all, to take into account the possible load on a particular outlet (wiring line).

Thank you for your advice. Another point - if the terminals in the screw terminal block are aluminum, then can it be used for copper wires? And if vice versa?

Dmitry1, screw terminal blocks for home wiring are not made of aluminum. Typically, the contacts of such terminal blocks are made of tinned copper, brass, nickel or galvanized steel.

Therefore, the terminal blocks can be used to connect both aluminum and copper conductors.

HELLO! WHAT ARE THE SWITCHED-OUT ENERGY-SAVING BULBS BLINKING FOR? MAY CAUSE THE SWITCH WITH NIGHT LIGHT?

Dmitry1, really the reason is the backlit switches. The only way to solve the problem is to turn off the backlight of the switch. Or, if you want to leave the backlight, you need to install a conventional incandescent lamp or a halogen lamp, which is designed to be powered directly from the 220 V.

Hello. I bought a socket combined with a switch. Dismantled - inside one of the contacts of the outlet is connected to one wire and that's it. Tell me where to connect 220 w?

Dmitry1, 220 V must be connected to the terminals of the outlet. One wire connected to the outlet is most likely the phase that goes to the switch. If there is any doubt about where to connect, and it is not visible visually, then it is better to take the device and ring out which pin of the socket corresponds to which terminal.

I accidentally came to your page and just went nuts from the comments of the wiring dinosaurs. Dear opponents of the Vagovsky terminal blocks, you are guided simply by a banal principle, and the principle is like a stick tied to your back, which does not allow your back to bend, turning your body into a railroad tie ... sorry for the allegory. I will give a few facts for the spring terminal block:
1) Clemniks are ALREADY used actively since 1953 !!! During this time, they have so proven themselves that they are used all over the world, and in such countries as Japan, the USA, half of Europe, Australia their percentage in electrical installation exceeds 90%. Think about it.
2) Nobody tells you that soldering or welding is bad, but a spring made of stainless steel does not sink for decades. And the subsequent drawdown without mechanical impact will not lead to any fatal consequences, with reasonable compliance with the technical specifications of the terminal block.
3) Here, who wrote about the total load of more than 16A ... -Well, there’s just no words, do you hang wires without automatic machines, or don’t calculate the load on the trunk. NO ONE CANCELED THE LOAD OF WORKING THE AUTOMATIC MACHINE, nor can it cancel it.You just need to correctly calculate the entire electric highway and there will be no incidents.
4) Just compare your time spent installing the twist with soldering (not surface, but high-quality) or welding with mounting the terminal block. And time is your money and money is the nerves of your customer.
PS: Living in the past is "not good," everything and everyone is moving towards improvement, and with your views, it will not be worse, but if you calculate all the factors, then it is not better. You don’t use ancient tools, such as a chisel and a hammer and two screwdrivers, for sure both a puncher and a screwdriver and a tester are not on a light bulb and hand tools are better than "shovels" .... and here it’s also history. Take care of yourself, your time, your health, and leave fears to the test of time. And in this case, more than 60 years, to check the quality of the terminal block - this is the period!

Here, some comrades talked about the meager contact spot of wago, I have nothing against such electricians, but these are electricians who do not know at all, or have forgotten the school geometry course, google the wago clamping scheme, count the contact spot using geometry .... and will be surprised)))

For many years he worked in the housing and communal services and I do not recommend to use Wago everywhere for installation.
First, tenants during equipment operation often overload one line with electrical appliances, ignoring the rest.
Secondly, the area of ​​contact is very small. For some reason, in geometry there are a lot of problems with the point of contact with a circle, and not with the area of ​​contact. Only soldering and welding, ideally, as described above - without a gap, especially the outlet.
Thirdly - Wago plastic burns. It does not melt, namely it burns.
Fourth, they take up a lot of space in the junction box. And at the same time, when turning to lay the wires can stretch out of the contacts.
As a result, you left, having done the installation quickly, and then they call us and we remove your “ease of installation”.