Categories: Practical Electronics, Electrician Secrets, Electrician at home
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How to make a do-it-yourself indicator of connecting electrical appliances to a 220V network

 

How to make a do-it-yourself indicator of connecting electrical appliances to a 220V networkIndication device allows you to monitor when leaving home: are electrical appliances disconnected from the network? If any load with a power> 8 W remains on, then both LEDs HL1 and HL2 light up (see figure). The brightness of the glow is small at a load of 8 watts (a dot in the LED is on), therefore, in bright light, to see the glow, you need to cover with your palm the penetration of bright light on the LED. LED (s) are installed at the front door. Conductors to them (0.2 mm) are laid under the wallpaper (due to the small current passing through them). LED HL2 can be excluded from the circuit, and if it remains, then HL1 can be installed on the inside of the door, and HL2 - on the outside.

As a T1 transformer, ready-made ones are used, which have a winding with a large number of turns (2000-3000, or maybe less) and it is possible to wind 8 to 10 turns of a mounting wire of sufficient cross-section. In each particular transformer, the number of turns is selected experimentally. These 8 - 10 turns will be the primary winding of the transformer, and the secondary - those that are in the finished transformer.

Different types of finished transformers have been tested. Suitable for this purpose TVK 70-L2. However, it should be noted that not all transformers work well in this circuit. The greater the load, the thicker it is necessary to take the mounting wire for the primary winding.

Extra windings can be removed from the transformer, then there will be more space for winding the mounting wire, as the primary winding of the T1 transformer.

The indicator circuit of connecting electrical appliances to a 220V network

The primary winding T1 is included in the gap of the wire supplying voltage to the apartment (for example, in the apartment box or in the power board). A necessary condition for the implementation of such a connection, so that the primary winding wire is of sufficient cross-section (it was heated under load).

See also at e.imadeself.com:

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    In this case, the shown circuit will not work since the LEDs are powered by direct current, at least one diode must be installed and the voltage value will be too large; in this case, it is necessary to select a resistor in series.

     
    Comments:

    # 2 wrote: andy78 | [quote]

     
     

    Ivan, you are wrong. LEDs can also be connected to an alternating voltage network. The simplest option is to connect the LED to the 220 V network through a quenching resistor.

     
    Comments:

    # 3 wrote: VITALY | [quote]

     
     

    30-35 kOhm RESISTOR and LED can be connected for 220 breaks.

     
    Comments:

    # 4 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    In addition to the resistor, another diode must be turned on in parallel with the LED to limit the reverse voltage. Typically, the maximum value of the reverse voltage is about 6V, and without an additional diode, a reverse voltage breakdown will occur in the LED.

     
    Comments:

    # 5 wrote: Richard | [quote]

     
     

    Oh people. We take an LED of any color, sequentially set the resistance to 200 kilograms 0.25 watts. And we all cling to the direct current, which we get thanks to the diode bridge of 4007 series diodes. Well and accordingly, in parallel, we set a capacitor at 400 volts 4.7 microfarads. We set the conder as plus for minus the bridge and minus for plus of the bridge.

     
    Comments:

    # 6 wrote: Vladimir | [quote]

     
     

    In my opinion, the circuit will work only in a limited range of currents.For example, if there are 10 turns in the primary and 2000 in the secondary, then at a current of 10 amperes (iron or something like that), a current of 50 mA will flow through the LEDs. Of course, it will be distributed between the LEDs, but even in this case, 25 mA will flow through each LED. This is already more than the maximum allowable for such LEDs. And if you turn on the electric kettle and at the same time start frying potatoes on an electric stove, then the LEDs are guaranteed to burn out almost instantly. On the other hand, the included laptop will not cause any visible glow of the LEDs.

     
    Comments:

    # 7 wrote: Boris | [quote]

     
     

    The circuit is fully functional.

    Firstly, the two diodes in the opposite direction work perfectly on alternating current, although there will be a flicker of 100 Hz, but this is an indicator, not a reading lamp. Secondly, modern superbright green (not super powerful, but current / candela efficient) LEDs glow noticeably during the day, starting from 10-20 microamps, withstanding a nominal current of 10 milliamps, which gives a current display range of the order of 1000 times, for example 30 amperes - 30 milliamps, which will show just the included charging from the laptop and a fully included electric furnace.

    Unfortunately, there is no detailed consideration of the process of manufacturing a transformer, only a scientific poke method.