How to connect the washing machine to the mains

In the diagram, in my opinion, an error. It lies in the fact that the ground wire that goes from the shield to the outlet is connected from the zero bus. The purpose of this bus, as far as I see, is "zero", but not as non-ground. And it turns out that on the outlet, zero and grounding (grounding) come from one "zero" input and if you look at the circuit and think, then if the neutral wire from the shield fails somewhere, then the second neutral wire will compensate for 220 volts, respectively the voltage will be between the phase and the grounding contact, and the body of the appliance will be energized. If you do so, then there will be a better chance of reliability in the jumper in the socket itself from zero to the ground contact, as it is much more difficult to kill or damage the jumper. But if there is no grounding in the house, then it is better to put a differential power device or an RCD on a 30 mA circuit breaker and make a socket without grounding or think about how to ground it.

P.S. I’ll recover from what has been written that it is impossible to use zero as a ground and therefore it is impossible to put a jumper from the zero contacts to the ground.

When connecting the washing machine to the electrical network, it is imperative to put an RCD! RCD is designed to disconnect the electrical network in case of electric shock. it tracks the leakage created by the current flowing through the human body. If the insulation on the phase wire is damaged inside the washing machine and it closes to the washing machine body, the RCD will immediately turn off the electricity, since the current that has entered the apartment through the phase wire has not returned to the RCD. In this case, the current of the washing machine housing through the ground wire will return to the shield, bypassing the RCD, which will respond to the difference between incoming and outgoing currents. So, when connecting a washing machine, the presence of an RCD in the network is very important for electrical safety!

The most important thing when connecting electricity and water is safety. Two or three wire line in this case does not play a role.
Simple video example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI1ZpUkBClo&feature=plcp

planerist916, listen to you, so they invented a three-wire line for fun, and it has nothing to do with safety.

All this is true. But what about those who live in the old "Khrushchev"? There are old two-wire lines. Switchboards "antediluvian" and zero grounded tires are not there.

The scheme is absolutely CORRECT. If the working zero is cut off, the case cannot be energized in any way! Just the car will not turn on .... And a protective neutral wire was created EXACTLY FOR PROTECTION when a phase gets on the case, if somewhere the working neutral wire breaks. For this, the protective conductor is taken even larger cross-section (during installation). Protective zero is a kind of reliable backup of the working zero for the machine to operate in the shield during a short circuit (in particular, during breakdown to the case). But, only RCD will give 100% protection against electric shock, a person will not have time to feel the shock (milliseconds). And the common bus - it is GENERAL everywhere, to pull a separate bus from each object to the power plant? This is nonsense! In the conditions of our two-wire networks, so far the minimum protection is still a jumper in the Euro socket; a conventional socket is not suitable for rooms with increased danger (bathtubs, showers, baths). In the "Khrushchev" metal base of the counter panel - this is the zero working and protective bus. You can extend an additional one copper wire to the "Euro sockets". In no case should you join the pipes or the bath! This will expose more than one hundred people to the risk of electric shock, if you suddenly experience a breakdown in the insulation of the phase conductor, and the plugs (machines) do not work, and even before tripping (in a split second) you can get extreme with unknown consequences ...

Be careful with electricity! Not knowing at least the basics of electrical engineering and, especially the Installation Rules, Operating Rules, Safety Rules, do not risk your health (and life). ALL RULES ARE WRITTEN BY BLOOD!

Trust in professionals, do not try to seem smart, it is impossible to know everything!

I would not want to read the tips and explanations of ignorant "masters", do not mislead those who ask for help.

I wish you all success in working with "His Majesty - Electricity"!

It should also be mentioned that in the case of installing the washing machine in the bathroom, it is necessary to install a secure outlet to connect it. Bathroom - a room of high humidity, in which it is not ruled out splashing water, which can get into a power outlet. Therefore, when choosing a power outlet, you need to pay attention to the degree of protection of its housing, which should not be lower than IP44.

The last photo shows a carrier that does not have such protection. The use of such a carry carries a mortal danger.

If the length of the wire of the washing machine allows you to bring it outside the bathroom, then you can turn on the machine through such a transfer. Otherwise, you must use a secure outlet to turn on the machine.

I didn’t understand something. Quote: “Often in apartments with a gas stove there is also a socket for an electric stove that is not used. It can be used to connect the washing machine, since the grounding wire is already in it. To do this, replace the socket for the electric stove with a standard socket with a grounding contact."
Excuse me, but why the hell then change the outlet? Or do you want to say that the socket WITHOUT grounding contact, and the grounding wire in the installation box ???