How to make entry into the house using SIP

"... On the supply to the outer wall of the house, SIP can be fixed with an anchor clamp to the bracket. This is also a standard fittings for SIP and there may be special problems during its installation. Here, too, the number of clamps and anchors corresponds to the number of lead cores .." Erroneous statement . There is one anchor, and the RA-25 clamp is also one.

"... And yet, the best way is to organize the input: installing an additional two- or four-pole circuit breaker (depending on the number of phases) before entering the wall. The circuit breaker can be installed in a separate sealed box. There will be an SIP before the circuit breaker, and after him - VVGng in the corrugated pipe .. "

Sealed box must be street performance. Boxing for one IP65 execution machine .. Well, we bought it. And then another problem arises - the machine has screw terminals. Therefore, they will simply need to be pulled, even when using tips. How to do it in a sealed box? And on the sixteenth SIP still try to persuade electricians to put the tips! And for aluminum, this is a serious problem, with good loads, without pulling it, after a couple of months, it is simply pulled out of the machines by hand ...

"the use of aluminum with a cross section of less than 16 sq. mm. is currently prohibited by PUE"

Is it possible to refer to the clause of the PUE prohibiting the use of aluminum wire with a cross section of less than 16 squares?

I beg:

According to the asterisk, there is a remark that, according to the existing backlog of construction, aluminum extended life until 2001.

Pulling VLEP vulture is a pleasure!

Author, On an asterisk - a remark that, according to the existing backlog of construction, aluminum extended to 2001.

I very much apologize, please tell me, in 25 days what year will come, I myself am not local, it seems ...

From the article, I realized that when connecting a wooden house, you can make an SIP input (I have 2x16 mm) and draw it directly from the support to the electrical panel (to the opening machine)? Through the wall of the house SIP will go in a metal pipe. I do not want to make the transition - aluminum-copper. The whole wire looks much better, and in terms of fire safety, it will probably be better. Although, several experts at once said to me that there is a requirement that a cable with aluminum conductors cannot be used in a wooden house. If this can be done, then how is the most correct and safe way to make a SIP connection - a circuit breaker?

For Yura: there are no separate restrictions for aluminum in a wooden house. You want the whole cable from the support to the opening machine - no problem, this is not prohibited. Sip just bending a little uncomfortable, hard it. And so for God's sake.

As for the recommendation of choosing an outdoor machine one step higher than the internal one in order to ensure selectivity - there are doubts, because selectivity tables are given by the manufacturer and from them only and you can accurately find out the values ​​of the machines.
But here the energy supplying organizations require the value of the input automatic machine according to the calculated load, and such in this case will be external, because he is the first in the chain.

The hole for the input cable in the wall must be reinforced with a plastic or steel grounded pipe.

PUE 1.7.48. It is not necessary to deliberately ground or ground:

6) metal brackets, fasteners, pieces of pipes for mechanical protection of cables in the places of their passage through walls and floors and other similar details, including broaching and branching boxes up to 100 cm2 in size, electrical wiring made by cables or insulated wires laid on walls, ceilings and other building elements.

Dear Alexander! Please advise:

If electricians demand to divide PEN into PE and N, then is this separation to be performed correctly up to this introductory machine on the building facade? That is, in a box on the facade of the building to install a shred and divide on it?

If this is the case, then is it more correct to pull PE into the house shield with the fifth core from the same facade shield or a separate core from the ground strip?

Sergei

Simply install an additional PE bus in the shield. If the input circuit breaker is single-pole, then simply connect the input PEN to bus N and connect it with a jumper with PE. We connect a grounding device to the same PE.

The PEN wire from the branch is first connected to the PE bus and a jumper is already made from it to the N bus (in this sequence). Re-grounding is immediately connected to the PE bus. If all this is done on the outside of the house, then the phase wire from the machine (installed in the outer box) PE wire and N wire are pulled into the shield installed in the house. The phase and N wires are connected to the electric meter, and the PE wire is connected to the PE panel of the shield. You don’t need to install PE and N busbars at all on purpose - with the help of clamps, make a tap from the PEN wire first, a tap is made for re-grounding, the second is a tap for the PE panel shields in the house, and the third tap is for the N panel shields.

Oh yes, sorry. Here is a reference to the regulatory document on this subject:

Please tell me which cable is suitable for connecting a village house to power lines?

Tell me please if the electricians sip correctly entered the external meter. Counter in a sealed box, input sip 2 wires, output is also 2 phase and zero. In their opinion, I should divide the ren into re and n on the switchboard next to the meter.

The same PUE regulates the use of rf, tkz with double insulation when entering and laying indoors. And SIP is not double isolation. And the proximity of the OHL wires to the walls of buildings and structures at a distance of less than 6 cm is prohibited. Therefore, when laying on walls outside SIP-ohm, remote clamps are used. In general, a strange article. Despite the remaining errors. Wow, now they will advise here, and then people will go about scandalizing with this. :)

Good evening! Question: private house - changed the old wiring to a new one from copper wire. The inside-house shield has 3 automatic machines, a zero bus (all the zero wires are planted on it, a grounding bus - all grounding wires (yellow-green are planted. Then there is an exit to the input shield. It contains a 25-ampere IEK input circuit breaker and a grounding bus. Grounding is made .
So: a familiar electrician - he works in networks and advised me to do this: lead the wire from the ground loop to the ground bus of the input shield, and from the house ground bus also go to the external ground bus with a wire. Connecting with VL do this: phase to the machine, then to the meter, then to the intra-house machines. Zero wire to the ground bus, and from it to the meter and from it to the house bus zero! It turns out that zero with the overhead line will be connected to the ground loop and to the ground wire in the house wiring.Is it correct to connect ZERO from a pole through a copper bus with a grounding circuit and with a grounding yellow-green wire inside the house networks?
If combustion occurs at the substation or its breakdown on the overhead line, then all the houses along the street will sit on my circuit and it will not withstand and a fire will occur? How to connect everything correctly, do I need to change something or add it to the dashboard?
I made the steel grounding strip a 16-sq. Copper wire. stranded. The copper bus in the input shield will connect the copper wires from the ground electrode and from the house to the aluminum SIP. How to connect so that there is no oxidation?

Regarding entering the house. Beginner answered the technical school !? It seems that this comrade has no idea how to make an eyeliner to the house. Tops from theory and all the tips. And accessories, cable? At least an approximate calculation. WHERE IS HE !? Chatter and nothing more.

"SIP - a wire that can withstand outdoor use - is unlikely to be less reliable indoors." Insulated SIP cable made of cross-linked polyethylene supports combustion! Therefore, to enter the house is extremely stupid. For those, the cat will begin to write what is written in the passport, etc.: take a piece of vulture and light it with a lighter, I assure you it will burn with a blue smoking flame. Second: "And yet the best way is to organize the input: installing an additional two- or four-pole machine (depending on the number of phases) before entering the wall. The machine can be installed in a separate sealed box."

If you put the box at the level of cable entry into the house, then which deer will climb it there to include if knocked out? And if you put this box at the access level without a stepladder, then what's the point? The same whips on the facade.

Please tell me at what minimum height you can fix the sip wire to the pole. The pillar stands at a distance of 3 meters from the country house. The height of the entrance to the house is drilled a hole of 2.7 meters. Can I not raise it under the very top of the pillar, but lower it by 3-3.5 meters from the ground ?. Thanks!

Why shove a vulture into a corrugation or box? there are BIC15.50 bandages or facade fastenings SF10, they allow you to lay the sip on the wall of the house, while the sip will not touch the wall.

Alexander, yes you can make a descent on a support to the desired height using BIC 15.50 bandages or similar IEK (more fragile clamps, but everything is ok in warm weather)

Paul,
I’ll support and add that not only the introductory, but the entire metering unit should be moved from the house to the facade

Paul, damn it, I didn’t want to quote you))))

Yuri,
single phase? the input circuit-breaker needs a 2-pole (i.e., phase and zero there) then zero and phase to the counter !!! and only then zero to the bus and phase to the outgoing machines. land connected to zero in the accounting point is allowed by the PUE and I think that it is necessary. if suddenly a zero burns out on the TP, then the load from your "earth" to zero will go back through the input two-pole "automatic" and it will turn off ... by the way, in the PUE at the beginning, in my opinion, in section 7 it is written that the input automaton should be 2 or 4 poles (i.e. zero should be on the machine) .... yes, but you thought why they are for sale?))

Hi!!! Help!!! SIP216 per box. On the box SIP216 on the input automatic bipolar 40A. With input ed. 40A per meter. With the device uch. to enter aut 32A, then I go to house 24 for distribution of plast. shield and from there to the lighting. and to the outlet! SHIELD will be on the street! TIP How to make grounding ATTENTIVELY ONLY THE SHIELD! Because I will have an RCD for each group inside my house! IS IT CORRECT? ATP in advance!

Pro100y, grounding needs to be done throughout the entire home wiring, not just one switchboard. Installing residual current circuit breakers does not exempt from the need to ground home electrical appliances.

Hello everyone, I have a question: what is the minimum height of the pillars?

Thanks for the article, it helped. But there were questions. On my post (cottage) they will put a counter with an introductory machine at 25A. Single phase input. Can I put an input machine in the home panel too 25A or better, for example, less than 20A? After it, I plan to Uzo at 40A, then the machine 16A (sockets) + 10A (light). I'm afraid that the introduction to 20A will not be enough for 16A + 10A.

Anatoly,
SIP with a cross section of less than 16 squares is simply not let out by the industry, if you find a smaller cross section in the market - you are a magician :)

Andrew,
circuit breakers (automatic machines) are placed to protect a conductor of a certain section. The introductory machine at your place is put as a limiter of power consumption. therefore, the input machine in the inner shield does not make sense to do less than the nominal value of 25 A.

Automatic machines for sockets are selected in accordance with the cross-section of the conductor, which they are obliged to protect, namely 16A for sockets with a cross-section of a wire of 2.5 squares, and 10A for lighting with a cross-section of a wire of 1.5 squares ... The sum of the ratings of the machines is not related to the nominal introductory machine, since (I repeat) machines should protect each of its lines.

As for the article, mediocre, for example, what to do for those whose maximum power of connection exceeds the social norm of 15 kW? "Recommended VVGng section of 6 or 10 square meters. mm. ", why exactly? There are more questions than answers in the article, it can be seen that a person with lower than secondary education in the energy sector wrote it.

Entering a house, especially a wooden SIW, is a common cause of fires. Never save on wire cross-section - if you do it for yourself, it is better to take a larger cross-section, this will firstly reduce the heat loss that you pay, and secondly, increase security, and thirdly, if you go for money in the future, increase the maximum power of technological connection, you will have less to change wires.
When non-professionals write articles, and people believe them, then all sorts of bad accidents happen. The pros work, they have no time to write articles :)