How to lay the cable from the shield to the outlet when connecting the electric stove

Suppose we have decided on the place of installation of the electric stove or washing machine. We decided where we will install the corresponding sockets, chose a cable, even purchased it in the required quantity, taking into account the required margin of several meters.

The current question is How to install this cable all the way from the apartment panel to the outlet? 'Cause we don't just pull cable, we mount a part of the electrical wiring, which is subject to electrical safety and fire safety requirements. In addition, since this is an apartment, the newly installed part of the wiring should not offend our aesthetic taste. Everything should be neat, beautiful and safe. Consider popular cable management methods.

Cable installation in the gate

If the walls in the apartment are made of non-combustible materials (concrete, brick or something like that), and the installation of equipment was timed to a major repair in your modest home, then the most successful way to install the cable would be laying it in a stroba for subsequent termination. In this case, the cable will be reliably hidden, will not disappoint you with its appearance and will be well protected under a layer of plaster, and in some places, possibly even under the tiles.

But one can decide on gating only before finishing the premises, since this is literally “dirty” business. If the repair is supposed only in the room where the cable is laid, then before the gate to the room is gated, it must be tightly closed or curtained with a heavy damp cloth. As personal protective equipment, glasses with side protection, earplugs and a respirator are required.

The gating tool can be used by almost anyone of your personal choice. After all get a professional chipper just for laying one cable, perhaps not worth it. The two most common types of power tools used for small volumes of chiseling are a puncher and an angle grinder (grinder).

It is better to equip the perforator for performing the strobe not with a simple drill, but with a flat lance or a strober - with a special spatula. The hammer drill mode for the strobe is purely percussion. Do not forget about the lubricant for the drill, because we wish our tool long and happy years of life.

To grind the grinder will have to buy a stone cutting blade. The technology is this: we make cuts along the edges of the strobes to the depth necessary for laying the cable, and then we knock out the “middle” with a hammer with a chisel or the same puncher.

For hard materials, such as concrete monolith, a grinder can be a more productive tool compared to a perforator. But there will be an order of magnitude more all-pervasive dust from the grinder: when working without a respirator, one can, without exaggeration, suffocate. A vacuum cleaner is quite useful here, and it’s better industrial, since it’s not good for the household.

Some building materials, for example, foam concrete blocks, are so soft that they can ... dig through a single-cable strob with a large screwdriver. It is difficult, of course, to say whether this can be called luck, but it is certainly worth taking into account.

Before the gating itself, it is necessary to mark the path of the cable. At the same time, it must be taken into account that horizontal transitions are performed at a height of at least 2.5 meters or under the ceiling, and diagonal transitions are completely prohibited. In addition, it is extremely important not to get on the line of an existing wiring, so as not to run into its complete replacement. This is a rather difficult task. An indicator with a phase finder or a similar device will help.Elementary attentiveness will not be superfluous: by the location of the junction boxes and the direction of the cores included in them, you can get some idea of ​​the path of the cables.

To get the strobe more or less even and straight, for preliminary marking you can use the building level, some kind of rail and plumb.

The depth of the strobes for laying the entire cable should not be very large - about two centimeters. Fastening the cable is easiest with dowel clamps with a capture size of 5-30 millimeters. The diameter of the mounting holes for such dowel clamps is six millimeters.

The sequence of work is as follows:

• mark the path of passage of the strobe; we will be ditched;

• we drill holes of 6 mm in diameter along the bottom of the groove approximately every 0.5 meters;

• we insert the cable inside the dowel-clamp, and the clamp itself - into the prepared hole. This operation is repeated along the entire length of the strobe;

• we close the stroba and level the wall using decorative materials and the work is done.

Outdoor cable installation

But the prospect of strobing will delight not everyone. Usually people just get new household appliances and want to connect it to their network, costing "little blood." If at the same time it is necessary to forward a new cable - please, but so that subsequently redecoration of the room is not required.

In this case, you can, of course, just nail the cable to the wall with brackets with nails. Such fasteners are easy to buy in any electrical store. But mounting the cable with brackets is also not always acceptable. For combustible structures (such as wooden walls), the cable must not be laid openly. And the type of cable with brackets does not fit into any interior.

On the wooden walls you can mount the cable in the corrugated pipe, which is attached to the wall with special clips or an aluminum mounting strip. But the corrugated pipe has a very official and gray appearance, which is in no way suitable for living quarters.

Thus, the best option for open cable routing from the shield to the outlet remains plastic cable channel.

We can talk a lot about the installation of wiring in cable channels, this business has a lot of subtleties. If you have never had experience with this whimsical plastic material, then it is better to trust the experts. Do-it-yourself work, of course, will increase self-esteem, but outwardly it will not look particularly pretty.

If you still want to mount the boxes yourself, then you need to stock up with such a tool: tape measure, building level, construction pencil, screwdriver (for the lazy) or Phillips screwdriver (for the patient), a grinder or hacksaw for metal, an assembly knife. You can fix the cable channel to the wooden walls with ordinary self-tapping screws, and for fixing on concrete or brick you will need plastic dowels and, accordingly, a perforator.

For the installation of any single cable within the apartment, a cable channel with a section of 25 * 16 is enough. Boxes are sold in pieces of two meters, so with a longer length of the line, installation will have to be done “butt”. When trimming the cable channel and adjusting it to size, you must be extremely careful: do not leave cracks and avoid bending. The most difficult element is the transition from horizontal to vertical, that is, a junction of 90 degrees. It is difficult to advise something here - in the absence of transitional reinforcement, each solves this problem in his own way. It will take a lot to wield a saw or grinder, but the main thing is not to leave sections of the open cable.

The procedure for installing the cable in a plastic box is as follows:

• open the box, put the lids to the side;

• measure out each box in stages, cut it to size and mount it on the wall;

• we lay the cable in the cavity of the box and immediately close the covers, not forgetting to cut them.

In this case, it is better to try so that the joints of the boxes do not coincide in location with the joints of the covers - then the installation is more accurate.

Read on this topic:Connection of an electric stove and a washing machine in the TN-C system